The Burner Grills
Introduction
After reading quite a bit on various forums and websites, I learned that the Brutus frame has issues with heat transfer from the pots into the frame. I wasn’t really concerned about it getting to the point that the strength of the steel would be affected, but I was thinking about possible burns and or damage to the silicone hoses. I had seen that people had developed different unique solutions to the problem in various grill designs, so I came up with my own. The grill is nothing special – just some straight steel pieces. The thing I did differently is sat these burners on ceramic tile in an effort to separate metal to metal contact, adding a layer of thermal insulation between the pot/grill and the stand. Note that all of the dimensions noted here are for the stand that I built. If you adjust the size of the stand, you need to adjust the size of the grills and the bill of materials. I wouldn’t go more than about 6 inches without a tile under the horizontal run of the grill to prevent bowing when the full pot is on it.
Prep work
The grills are made from 1 1/4" steel, 1/8” thick. This was sourced at Home Depot, though you may be able to pick it up somewhere else cheaper. 3 pieces of 36” x 1 1/4" x 1/8” are needed, as well as 4 pieces of 48” x 1 1/4" x 1/8” and 1 piece of 1” x 1” x 1/8” angle. The 3 36" are cut into 6 17” long pieces, and the 4 48" pieces are cut into 12 15” pieces. Cut the angle into 24 1” long pieces, these will be what connects the vertical runs to the horizontal mounts.
Also used are 18 1/4"-20 x 3/4” zinc plated hex bolts, 18 1/4" zinc plated flat washers and some 2” x 2” ceramic tile. I picked up one of those nice mosaic pieces used for backsplash or walls that is basically a bunch of 2” x 2” tiles attached together with a mesh. This costs about $4. Individual 2” x 2” tiles cost a buck or two each. Much more economical to buy the big mesh and pull the tiles off. Of note – make sure to get one that the tiles are attached with a mesh on the back, not the one where the tiles are glued together at the edges. The glue can get messy or burn when heated, so it should be avoided.
To drill the tile, you will need a 1/4" diamond bit. They are ~$20. They are also necessary. I tried cheaper bits, but they burnt up after one or two holes and did nothing but crack the tile. You may have more luck or know more about drilling tile than I do and have a different method. If not, buy the diamond bit and save yourself the cursing every time you hear the crack of a tile under the drill.
Build out
First thing is to mark the points where the angle is welded to the mounts. 4 angles on each horizontal member, each mounted so that the vertical leg is at the point where the vertical run will attach. Using a clamp, and going one by one, tack the angles on the horizontal mounts.
Next, clamp up one of the vertical pieces and tack it to one of the mounts. After this, tack the other end to the other mount. Repeat this over and over until you have all 4 vertical runs tacked to the horizontal mount, and then fully weld it out. If you don’t want to weld, you can probably get away with putting this together with 1/4" hex bolts and nuts. Just make sure that on the horizontal mount, the head of the bolt is on the surface that will be towards the stand, or it won’t fit when you put it on.
Once you get all three grills made (yes three, you need one in the middle for the mash tun even though there isn’t a burner there), drill the holes in them. We are going to attach them to the stand using 1/4" x 3/4” hex bolts, but the holes in the grill need to be 3/8” to accommodate for thermal expansion. The grill will grow when the fire is put to it, and the stand will not. You don’t want to be cracking welds when its loaded and hot, or at all for that matter.
Now for the fun part. Drilling the tile. Do not use a drill press. The diamond bit should be only be used on a hand held drill. You start at a 45 degree angle then move perpendicular to the tile. Also, the diamond bit requires water to be sprayed on the tile while cutting. Or you can just dip the bit in water when it gets dry. You will notice it is dry when it is pulling up powder instead of what looks like clay. Drill 18 tiles, doing your best to keep the holes in the center. If they are a little off its not a big deal.
Once you have your grills made and drilled, and tiles drilled, you need to drill and tap the holes on your stand. Place the grill in the location you want it. They should center up over the burner hole in the stand. Mark the centers of the holes that are in the grill on the stand so that everything will line up when assembled. After the holes are marked, remove the grill. Center punch all of the marks, then using the drill bit from your tap set drill the holes for a 1/4"-20 thread. This should be a #7 drill bit. Once drilled, tap the holes using the tap and cutting oil.
Now that it’s all drilled up, do a test fit. Put the tiles over the holes on the stand, smooth side down (any residual glue from the mesh can burn onto the grill and not the stand this way), then put the grill on, and using the hex bolts and washers. The washer goes under the head of the bolt. Hand tighten only! If you over tighten you are going to crack the tiles, then back to drilling more of them. Once you are sure everything lines up and fits, take it back apart and we’re moving on to mounting the burners.
After reading quite a bit on various forums and websites, I learned that the Brutus frame has issues with heat transfer from the pots into the frame. I wasn’t really concerned about it getting to the point that the strength of the steel would be affected, but I was thinking about possible burns and or damage to the silicone hoses. I had seen that people had developed different unique solutions to the problem in various grill designs, so I came up with my own. The grill is nothing special – just some straight steel pieces. The thing I did differently is sat these burners on ceramic tile in an effort to separate metal to metal contact, adding a layer of thermal insulation between the pot/grill and the stand. Note that all of the dimensions noted here are for the stand that I built. If you adjust the size of the stand, you need to adjust the size of the grills and the bill of materials. I wouldn’t go more than about 6 inches without a tile under the horizontal run of the grill to prevent bowing when the full pot is on it.
Prep work
The grills are made from 1 1/4" steel, 1/8” thick. This was sourced at Home Depot, though you may be able to pick it up somewhere else cheaper. 3 pieces of 36” x 1 1/4" x 1/8” are needed, as well as 4 pieces of 48” x 1 1/4" x 1/8” and 1 piece of 1” x 1” x 1/8” angle. The 3 36" are cut into 6 17” long pieces, and the 4 48" pieces are cut into 12 15” pieces. Cut the angle into 24 1” long pieces, these will be what connects the vertical runs to the horizontal mounts.
Also used are 18 1/4"-20 x 3/4” zinc plated hex bolts, 18 1/4" zinc plated flat washers and some 2” x 2” ceramic tile. I picked up one of those nice mosaic pieces used for backsplash or walls that is basically a bunch of 2” x 2” tiles attached together with a mesh. This costs about $4. Individual 2” x 2” tiles cost a buck or two each. Much more economical to buy the big mesh and pull the tiles off. Of note – make sure to get one that the tiles are attached with a mesh on the back, not the one where the tiles are glued together at the edges. The glue can get messy or burn when heated, so it should be avoided.
To drill the tile, you will need a 1/4" diamond bit. They are ~$20. They are also necessary. I tried cheaper bits, but they burnt up after one or two holes and did nothing but crack the tile. You may have more luck or know more about drilling tile than I do and have a different method. If not, buy the diamond bit and save yourself the cursing every time you hear the crack of a tile under the drill.
Build out
First thing is to mark the points where the angle is welded to the mounts. 4 angles on each horizontal member, each mounted so that the vertical leg is at the point where the vertical run will attach. Using a clamp, and going one by one, tack the angles on the horizontal mounts.
Next, clamp up one of the vertical pieces and tack it to one of the mounts. After this, tack the other end to the other mount. Repeat this over and over until you have all 4 vertical runs tacked to the horizontal mount, and then fully weld it out. If you don’t want to weld, you can probably get away with putting this together with 1/4" hex bolts and nuts. Just make sure that on the horizontal mount, the head of the bolt is on the surface that will be towards the stand, or it won’t fit when you put it on.
Once you get all three grills made (yes three, you need one in the middle for the mash tun even though there isn’t a burner there), drill the holes in them. We are going to attach them to the stand using 1/4" x 3/4” hex bolts, but the holes in the grill need to be 3/8” to accommodate for thermal expansion. The grill will grow when the fire is put to it, and the stand will not. You don’t want to be cracking welds when its loaded and hot, or at all for that matter.
Now for the fun part. Drilling the tile. Do not use a drill press. The diamond bit should be only be used on a hand held drill. You start at a 45 degree angle then move perpendicular to the tile. Also, the diamond bit requires water to be sprayed on the tile while cutting. Or you can just dip the bit in water when it gets dry. You will notice it is dry when it is pulling up powder instead of what looks like clay. Drill 18 tiles, doing your best to keep the holes in the center. If they are a little off its not a big deal.
Once you have your grills made and drilled, and tiles drilled, you need to drill and tap the holes on your stand. Place the grill in the location you want it. They should center up over the burner hole in the stand. Mark the centers of the holes that are in the grill on the stand so that everything will line up when assembled. After the holes are marked, remove the grill. Center punch all of the marks, then using the drill bit from your tap set drill the holes for a 1/4"-20 thread. This should be a #7 drill bit. Once drilled, tap the holes using the tap and cutting oil.
Now that it’s all drilled up, do a test fit. Put the tiles over the holes on the stand, smooth side down (any residual glue from the mesh can burn onto the grill and not the stand this way), then put the grill on, and using the hex bolts and washers. The washer goes under the head of the bolt. Hand tighten only! If you over tighten you are going to crack the tiles, then back to drilling more of them. Once you are sure everything lines up and fits, take it back apart and we’re moving on to mounting the burners.
Here is a view of the burner grill assembled. Yes the welds look like shit. Since this is a burner, and its made of mild steel, it is going to rust and get beat up over time. I am not so concerned with how the burners look. If you are, spend the time to clean the welds up after you finish them. However, DO NOT PAINT THE BURNER GRILL. Even the hi temp grill paint says not to use it on parts that will be exposed to direct flame.
My welds were so nice I thought I would add another view of them to show them off. On a more serious note, The burner grill only has 2 of the 6 hex bolts that attach it installed. You can clearly see the 4 open holes. This is also prior to putting the 2"x2" tiles under a few of the open holes too.
Here is a close up showing the stack up. 1/4-20 hex bolt with a 1/4 flat washer under the head, then the grill, then tile, then it gets threaded into the tapped hole in the stand.